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Continuation

Whilst on holiday in The Gambia in early 2006, Chris was introduced to young chef called Jobis and his family. However, after several trips that year, in November 2006, Chris was led by her faith to start researching the possibility of setting up a charity shop and other ways of assisting the community, in the area of Bakau where Jobis lives. In May 2008 Chris began taking over items to be sold in the shop.

Whilst Chris appreciates the good large charity organisations do in the poverty-stricken countries of Africa, her approach was to try and provide assistance on a more personal and long-term level. Since she started this project, Chris has seen how empowered the two young locals, Baba and Hela, who are running the shop, have become. The project is teaching them basic skills such as money handling, book-keeping and stocktaking. She has seen how they have grown in self-worth and confidence and she is pleased with how well they have handled this additional responsibility.

The shop is based in a residential area called a compound. The compound is little more than dwellings lining dust filled streets in a rural district called Bakau. There is little in the way of greenery and scarce shelter from the intense heat; and whilst there is a nod towards 21^st century technology in the form of internet cafes, on closer inspection we could see that most of these shops were closed, boarded up or laying bare. However they are not totally without modern technology as they do have mobile phones and satellite TV.

There are several compounds dotted around the residential areas and this particular one is home to roughly 20 people. The compound consists of single room dwellings which are usually occupied by whole families. The room I saw was fairly large, however in this one room the inhabitants would cook, eat, sleep and entertain. There is only one toilet, which is shared by both sexes, and which is essentially a hole in the ground, and running water in the form of one tap. This public convenience is a new addition, and only came into existence within the last 18 months. The shop itself is small, but what was once a neglected space has been transformed by the hard work of the locals who came out in force to clean and paint.

Although there is electricity, there are no street lights and the electricity regularly goes off during the evening. Therefore those residents lucky enough to have them, use torches. Nevertheless, this lack of resource, which we in the western world take for granted, does little to diminish their community spirit.

The inhabitants of the compound regularly come together to celebrate a birth, wedding, or another momentous occasion. These celebrations usually take the form of street parties, in which the inhabitants display the dancing and music they are famous for. Whilst there, we were the guest of honour at one of their parties, and so could personally experience the warm and welcoming nature which so characterises the Gambians. Not only are they generous with their time, but also with their food, and we were treated to some traditional Gambian cuisine.

Within easy walking distance of the compound is one of the most luxurious hotels in the Gambia. As is the case in many third world countries where tourism is a major source of income, the divide between the rich and poor is striking. In this particular complex you are surrounded by rich greenery and facilities which the nearby compound sorely lacks.

During our stay we also took the opportunity to deliver pens, notepads, and books to schools in rural areas. The government does little to support the education system in the form of resources and the most basic of items are in short supply. In one particular school, whose students ranged in age from primary to seniors, there was a lack of furniture such as tables and chairs. As informed by one of the head teachers, his school like most of the state run schools relies heavily on donations from passing tourists. It was through the kind donations that, over a period of time, his school was able to build some much needed classrooms.

A typical school might consist of 2 or 3 classrooms which look out onto barren and dusty land. It is common practice for the teaching day to be split into two shifts; students would arrive for lessons in the morning and then make way for new students who attend the afternoon lessons. Although you could see and understand the teachers' frustrations at the lack of resources, you couldn't fail to admire their determination in providing the best education for the children within the limited facilities available to them.

It is a sad reality that most Gambians will live and die within the economic conditions in which they are born. As Bana, Jobis' 18 year old sister explained, the only way she could fulfill her dream to become a journalist is if a Western sponsor funded her education in a western university. A very remote possibility.

Chris has a strong spiritual belief, and she herself cannot explain what drove her to pursue this project, or indeed what led her back to the Gambia time and time again. Suffice to say she listened to her 'inner voice.' She readily admits to being surprised at how quickly things have developed; a venture some believe couldn't be achieved within several years, has managed to become a reality within 18 months.

Her goal for the future is, as she says, 'vision and literacy.' Chris recognises the freedom good eyesight can bring, and in a country with an adult literacy rate of less than 30%, Chris understands the need of vision to forward literacy.

Yet for now, this fledgling organisation is banking what money it makes, and Chris is researching how to provide eye care to people whose day to day battle is just being able to survive. Chris fully understands the struggle she faces to break down the stigma surrounding the wearing of glasses, which most Gambians see as a weakness. She is looking at the possibility of having a mobile optician visit the compound for eye tests, and is also researching the Regional Eye Care Centre, a centre which was opened in Gambia with the purpose of looking at and treating eye diseases. Although she is starting with this small compound, Chris' long-term ambition is to try and help as many Gambians her resources will allow.

It is easy for me to see why Chris has such an affinity for the Gambia and its people. Although life for many is harsh, there is a surprising lack of bitterness and a warm and giving nature. There is a saying in the Gambia which goes 'you will never walk alone' as so often is sung when Liverpool football club play. Within minutes of leaving the hotel complex you can expect to be approached by locals selling their wares or willing to become an unofficial guide. It is not uncommon to find yourself accompanied by a Gambian who will educate you on the country's history or someone just willing to while away some time with you. It has a low crime rate and locals feel safe walking around at night. As one young girl said, she has never had any trouble walking home alone from a street party, which could finish as late as 4am. Although it is the smallest country in Africa it has a rich and diverse culture and a variety of ethnic groups live together with minimum friction.

At Banjul airport I reflected on the 7 days I had spent meeting the locals and learning a little on how they live. I have seen many different cultures and walks of life, from the slums of India to the glitz and glamour of Hollywood, yet my experience in the Gambia is the one that I will remember.

Lorraine Ebanks